Surface conditions- wafting offshore to glass.
I took a chance on a recent trip, off-season.
Not just a main stream location, that’s way to easy. This place had multiple flights, an overnight ferry followed by three hours in an oversized canoe. Time was limited, about a week at max and ever then I was neglecting a few chores that should have been done.
The swell forecasts had been great, all the right colours spinning around the digital globe. Size, period, direction, everything in place. However nothing is the same as waking up in the morning, looking out the window and taking it in with your own eyes.
By the second day the real world was putting it together.
“Technically” here’s what came my way.
1.5 metres of swell, that equates to about three to four feet by old school surfing standards. 15-second period, not super long but straight and clean enough. 80% offshore, 15% glassy and 5% onshore. Premium surface conditions. A few lulls but mostly four wave sets. Several eight to ten wave sets.
Key point, number of surfers. Max three for about two hours, sometimes two, mostly one. I mean this is one of the premier right hand barrels in the world. Winter with the same conditions would have at least twenty and probably thirty surfers all hassling, dropping in and arguing over the waves.
Not this time. Just me and a mate of mine.
It was epic, the waves were seriously amazing. The fun factor was right up there.
Which brings up another point. Right now there is lots of emphasis on big raw slabs. All fairly dramatic for sure but most surfers are not going to be riding the beast. Take these fun size perfect little barrels and those same surfers would crawl over broken glass to get this stuff on their own.
If you are going to follow this path know this, off-season is super hit and miss. Be prepared not to score, go fishing, take a book, whatever. Just hope and pray that one of those golden swells comes your way.
Surfing wise it was lots of fun but photographically a bit more size would have been good. Here are a few snaps, enjoy.
John on Big Red.
SOOO jealous! Looks epic! Nice shots Tony!! im going to hit it up early season this year for sure!!! Keep up the nice shots!!
nice to see the cookie lens going off.